Here’s what gives me some cred: I’ve had mild acne since fourth grade ☹️ I still have light flare-ups from time to time (on a monthly schedule, if you will), but my skin has significantly cleared up over the years 😀 Part of it could be due to different eating habits and living locations, part of it could be that my memory makes it out to be worse than it actually was so now it feels like a big change, but besides that… a large part is likely due to my updated skincare routine.

Some photo evidence to show difference:

Without further ado, here’s my updated skincare routine as of January 2026:

Morning

1. Foam Cleanser

2. Azelaic Acid

3. Moisturizer

4. Sunscreen

Evening

1. Oil Cleanser

2. Foam Cleanser

3. Active (4x week)

4. Moisturizer

Aestura Gentle Cleanser ($21)

I always come back to this foam cleanser. It is gentle, non-stripping, and lasts roughly three months. Although it is on the slightly more expensive side of cleansers, it’s definitely worth it to feel like your skin is clean without dehydration.

Kisocare Azelaic Acid ($11.68)

Studies have shown that azelaic acid can be used to reduce inflammation, even skin tone, and fight acne (Banner Health). I use this gentle active every morning on dry skin after cleansing and before moisturizing.

I debated gatekeeping the product itself because cough technically you shouldn’t be able to get this high of a percentage without a prescription cough but I know that sharing is caring 🙂 There are plenty of lower-concentration azelaic acid products out there, but I really wanted to find one above 15% (as more studies have been conducted on higher concentrations showing this active’s effectiveness). This Japanese azelaic acid solved that without having to go in to get a prescription or pay extra online for a consultation.

I have noticed a difference in redness since beginning use of this product. If you have mild acne, inflammation, or redness, I would recommend trying this out.

ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Concentrate Cream Moisturizer ($8 for 75ml)

I’ve now used this moisturizer for over a year and a half at least. I will occasionally swap to the Aestura moisturizer if there is a sale going on, but my regular remains this one. Calming, thicker cream without being too heavy. Perfect formula for my combination skin, in both the summer and winter.

haruharu wonder Sunscreen SPF50+ ($22)

Another staple in my skincare lineup. I struggled for many years to find a sunscreen that really worked for me. After the Purito sunscreen scandal of 2020, I was forced to search the earth for something similar (that would actually protect my skin). What I wanted: not too heavy and NO BREAKOUTS. 

I stumbled my way through a few sunscreens that caused more acne, then found the ultra-hydrating glass-skin sunscreen that I used for a year or so. Eventually, I was getting tired of my face being shiny all of the time and began my sunscreen quest anew.

Cue: haruharu wonder. 

Since happening upon this sunscreen, I have not looked back. I swapped this one out with my old sunscreen and I instantly noticed that my face was less shiny throughout the day. Since I kept all of my other skincare constant, I feel I can safely attribute the positive change to this sunscreen.

It is also light and doesn’t break me out, thus satisfying the two requirements.

DHC Deep Cleansing Oil ($31.50)

I’ve tried multiple cleansing oils and balms in my time, but once I found this one, I’ve never purchased another. While it is on the pricier side, I only use two pumps at night and it lasts me around three months. 10/10 would recommend. 

Taro Adapalene Gel ($11.99)

I tend to switch out my actives when I run out of product, so I can’t say too much about this one. I’ve used retinoids for several years now, and I haven’t noticed huge differences in effectiveness between over-the-counter products. 

I was using an under-the-proverbial-table tretinoin (technically you need a prescription, but I happened to meet a tretinoin dealer at college), and I did notice a difference in skin clarity / fine lines with that product compared to others. But if you can’t get a prescription for find a skincare dealer, over-the-counters are a great start.

Based on personal experience, consistency matters more than the product itself sometimes. Consistently using a good-enough retinoid is better than inconsistently using a great one. Don’t quote me, though, as I am not a dermatologist. 

I do want to point out that once I started prioritizing hydration over solely using strong actives, my acne began clearing up significantly.

When I started trying to clear up my acne, I was hardcore using actives nearly every morning and night trying to will my skin into being acne-free. After 10+ years of trying this and that product, I finally began to prioritize being gentle to my skin. This involved finding and using more hydrating and/or calming products like the viral Centella Ampoule or the Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Emulsion. When I added those into my routine and toned down (but still consistently used) an active, my acne began clearing up.

Nowadays, my skincare routine is more about maintenance rather than solving something specific (other than redness). So, I prioritize having a simple routine and rotating actives.

Of course, if I happen to see a product that I’m really interested in trying, I will try incorporating it into the routine. At the end of the day, I’ve found a balance that works for my skin: three days of prioritizing a gentle routine (including azelaic acid) and four days of using a stronger active at night.

When I feel like changing something up, I’ll only do it one product at a time to truly measure change (keep this in mind if/when redoing your skincare routine).

Other Skincare Tidbits (Pretty Much Free)

1. Brush your teeth before doing your skincare. You don’t want the toothpaste sitting on the edge of your lips all night.

2. Use a paper towel to dry your face rather than a regular towel. Keep the paper towel roll out of the bathroom (best) or in a cabinet in the bathroom (second best, but this is what I do). Pat your face dry gently. Better than using a paper towel, air dry your face (but who’s got time for that??).

3. Change your pillowcase every 1-2 nights. Use a silk and/or satin pillowcase to reduce friction and prevent acne / dehydration.

Skincare and Slowing Time Down

Skin is deeply personal. It can be a huge confidence booster or a great blight on your self-esteem.

Some days you can feel good looking in the mirror; on other days, you might dread going out because you think everyone notices the new pimple on your nose. Maybe they do, maybe they don’t. One thing I can say is that it likely has zero bearing on what they think of you.

Please, please, please be kind to yourself! It’s a journey, much like other things in life. Your skin does not determine your worth, and being confident in your own skin is a skill that you can practice. And you can always update your skincare routine to match new needs.

If you’re having a hard time with your routine and self-image, I challenge you to do something that may be a bit difficult: Spend five minutes (set a timer) looking in the mirror telling yourself (out loud) things that you like about yourself. Include some things about your appearance, and some things about your character.

Take time to notice yourself. Take time to be kind to the one person that you may often overlook.

And, if you find your mind wandering, feel free to talk aloud of what your new skincare routine might be.

Until next time,

Ana Castano